Day One: We took the overnight flight on British Airways from BWI to London Heathrow. Despite our apprehensions, Henry did remarkably well on the flight. Fortunately, the BA staff were prepared for an infant passenger: they made sure we were seated in the bulkhead row and provided us with an attachable cot where Henry could sleep. As you can see from the photos, Henry seemed pretty comfortable with his arrangements. While Henry slept, mom and dad enjoyed a glass of wine and the latest Indiana Jones movie.
Day Two: We arrived in London and made our way to the Hilton Paddington, where we all enjoyed a long afternoon nap. Afterward, we scouted out the local grocery stores for food, diapers and other essentials for our stay. In the evening, Elise and Henry had a quiet night at the hotel and Bryant met his friend Matt Reese at the Lamb and Flag pub in Covent Garden. Bryant worked with Matt when they were both associates at the law firm of Allen & Overy (A&O) in London. Having spent many an afternoon and night with Matt at the Lamb and Flag, it was nice to catch up in familiar surroundings.
Day Three: We visited our friends Sean and Joy Flanagan and their daughter Iyla at their home in Westminster. Bryant also worked with Sean at A&O and has known both Sean and Joy since law school. After lunch, we all went for a walk in St. James Park and later came back to the Flanagan home for coffee and dessert. It was a lovely afternoon catching up with old friends and introducing them to Henry. In the evening, we stopped by Matt Rees’s flat and had some curry take away before heading back to the hotel for some much needed rest.
Day Four: After a leisurely breakfast (and a morning nap for Henry) we jumped on the Tube and headed to Tower Hill to visit the Tower of London. Elise was particularly eager to visit the Tower after watching The Tudors miniseries and reading several Philippa Gregory novels. We joined a guided tour by one of the Yeoman Warders (or Beefeaters) who provided the usual entertaining historical commentary. While Elise explored some of the Tower sites, Bryant and Henry played in the courtyard. Henry was particularly fond of the old well, which he quickly utilized as a gym for climbing. He also was mesmerized by the famous Tower ravens. Afterward, we all went to see the Crown Jewels. On the way home, we stopped at the Embankment and strolled along the Thames to the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben. Then it was back to the hotel to pack for the next leg of our journey.
Day Five: In the morning we headed back to Heathrow where we picked up a rental car for our drive to Cornwall. We had reserved an economy car, but because they didn’t have any automatics left when we arrived, they upgraded us to a Mercedes C180. As we headed out of London on the motorway, the weather turned wet and windy. By the time we arrived at our first stop – Stonehenge – it was fairly miserable outside. Undeterred, we all bundled up and made a quick tour of the site before jumping back in the car. Fortunately, by the time we arrived at our hotel in Exeter, the weather had improved and we were able to take an evening stroll. For dinner, Bryant and Elise ordered fish and chips and Henry got to try his first french fry. (Throughout the journey, Henry ate amazingly well. He particularly liked the sausages that seem to be a staple on children’s menus in Britain.)
Day Six: In route to our apartment in Cornwall, we drove through Dartmoor Park, a beautiful area of protected moorland. Our first stop was Haytor Rocks, a large outcrop of rocks and the highest point in the moor. We hiked up to the top, which was very windy but afforded some beautiful views of the surrounding countryside. Henry didn’t care much for the blustery weather but he loved getting up close with the cows grazing on the hillside. After our hike, we drove to the charming village of Widecombe-in-the-Moor. There we stopped at the Old Inn for a pub lunch, Henry’s first. We then explored the village and the local church before heading on to Postbridge, the site of a medieval clapper bridge. In the evening we arrived at Truro, an old cathedral town and the administrative capital of Cornwall. We had booked a small apartment in Truro, which proved to be a perfect base for our explorations of Cornwall. After stocking up on provisions at the local Tesco, we were able to enjoy home cooked meals for several days. As with all the places we stayed, Henry loved exploring his new surroundings and quickly found every drawer, closet and cubby hole in the apartment for rummaging around.
Day Seven: We had planned to visit St. Michael’s Mount this day, but rough weather kept us from taking a ferry to the island. Instead, we had lunch in the nearby town of Marazion and drove across the Penwith Peninsula to Land’s End, the most westerly point in Britain. Although only about a 30-minute drive from Marazion, the weather at Land’s End was completely different: bright and sunny. We avoided the tacky tourist attractions near the parking lot and headed straight for the cliffs. The view from the coastal path was quite striking as the deep blue waves crashed onto the rocks below. Standing there, you could understand how earlier visitors might view this spot as the edge of the world. Afterward we enjoyed some Cornish ice cream (made with clotted cream) and Henry found an old ship anchor to climb. We then headed back to Truro and visited the cathedral.
Day Eight: Determined to see St. Michael’s Mount, we headed out earlier, before high tide. St. Michael’s is a castle on the site of a former monastery on an island just off the coast of Cornwall. The site is named for its sister island Mont Saint-Michel, almost directly across the English Channel in France. At low tide, you can walk to the island across a cobblestone causeway used by pilgrims since medieval times. At high tide, you have to catch a ferry. We arrived in time to walk across the causeway. Getting to the castle, which is still a private residence of the St. Aubyn family, involved a steep climb, but Henry didn’t mind as he was riding in the carrier on his mom’s back. After exploring the castle, we had lunch on the island and drove to St. Ives, a fishing village turned arts center on the Penwith Peninsula. We strolled around the harbor at St. Ives and enjoyed some more ice cream. This time, Henry also got to try some. Then it was back to Truro for our last night in Cornwall.
Day Nine: After checking out of our apartment in Truro, we headed north to Tintagel, legendary birthplace of King Arthur. We had lunch in the village (across from the 14th century post office) and then walked down to the ocean, where the castle ruins cling to the cliffs. The connection with King Arthur is purely speculative (although the site is associated with the Celtic kings of Cornwall), but the main attraction is the spectacular view of the coastline. It was a beautiful afternoon, and we climbed to the top of several cliffs to take in the panorama. Henry, however, decided it was a good time for a nap and slept through most of the visit. After exploring the castle grounds, we headed back to the village and stopped at a local pub, which had a playground in the back. There Henry got to swing while Bryant enjoyed an afternoon pint. Then it was back to Exeter.
Day Ten: Our last full day in England was devoted largely to driving. We headed back to London but stopped in the market town of Sherborne in Dorset for lunch and an afternoon stroll. The town has a medieval abbey with a large churchyard. We couldn’t find a playground, but Henry enjoyed climbing on the church monuments just the same. Apparently the churchyard is a popular spot with local children. While Henry was playing, he was joined by another young man named Callum, Henry’s middle name (see The Origin of "Callum"). Reluctant to see our vacation end, we headed back to the car and arrived at our hotel near Heathrow Airport by early evening.
Day Eleven: After a wonderful week, we boarded our flight to return home. Eight hours later, we were back in America and ready for a good night’s rest. Henry managed to stay awake until we were back in our condo, then he crashed for the night. His parents weren’t far behind him.
Click below for more photos from the trip:
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